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Belly Dance Costumes

By Salome


To the uninitiated Belly dance costumes may seem all the same. But in fact the costuming, along with the music, essence, and expression of movement are regionally distinct. This paper is devoted to identifying the current characteristics of mass produced and designer costumes from Turkey, Egypt and America.

Please keep in mind that the information is a loose frame work of commonalities. Crossover influences and individuality is plentiful. ALSO mention of Belly dance costume designers, manufacturers and importers is not an endorsement. Conduct business at your own risk.

Clarifying terminology. "Bra" is used to describe a costume garment, not lingerie. "Belt" is used to describe a costume garment that encircles the hips. "Veil" is used to describe a three yard length of lightweight fabric.

  • Turkey, A Foreword
  • Mass Produced Turkish Belly dance Costumes
  • Designer Turkish Belly dance Costumes
  • Pictures of Turkish Belly dance Costumes
  • Haute Couture to Novice Turkish Belly dance Costumes

  • Egypt, A Foreword
  • Mass Produced Egyptian Belly dance Costumes
  • Designer Egyptian Belly dance Costumes
  • Pictures of Egyptian Belly dance Costumes
  • Haute Couture to Novice Egyptian Belly dance Costumes

  • America, A Foreword
  • The Classic American Belly dance Costume
  • Pictures of American Belly dance Costumes
  • Haute Couture to Novice American Belly dance Costumes

    Turkey, A Foreword


    The Turkish Belly dance costume consists of bra, belt and skirt. Also prevalent among current designs are hip accentuations built directly onto the skirt in lieu of a separate belt. Accessories can include headband, necklace, wrist or arm cuffs or unattached sleeves (either form fitting or flowing), and veil. Gowns are not common. Neither are pants, Turkish dancers often show legs to full advantage. Shoes are a possibility.

    Mass Produced Turkish Belly dance Costumes


    Picture of a Mass Produced Turkish Belly dance Costume
Click picture to enlarge Commonalities among mass produced Turkish Belly dance costumes are: 6 to 18 inch beaded fringe attached half way up the bra cup, with a center piece draping between the cups. Alternatively, the fringe may be attached at the base of the bra and extend around the back or only across the front. In either scenario the fringe on the belt attaches at the base.

    The surface of the belt and bra are stitched in one color of sequin with a contrasting color used to create a design on each cup and in the center (front and back) of the belt. This is often a flowing abstract design, though sometimes recognizable patterns such as clam shells, diamonds, flowers etc. are used.

    The edges of the bra and belt are often crafted in scallops, points, or curlicues etc. The belt (front and back) is cut in a sharp V shape. The V can be dainty or quite large.

    A full costume will come with either a sheer pantaloon or skirt with no, or minimal, decoration and may also include a veil. Fabrics tend to be an industrial strength polyester/chiffon blend.

    Picture of a Mass Produced Turkish Belly dance Costume
Click picture to enlarge Higher end mass produced Turkish belly dance costumes share similar characteristics as lower end sets but are of superior quality. For example, the design patterns on the bra and belt will be in equal proportion and perfectly centered. Fringe will be the exact same length, and strung to last. Stitch work is sturdier. There will be more detail work on the skirt and veil. The shape, form and fit of the bra and belt are better.


    Designer Turkish Belly dance Costumes


    Picture of a Designer Turkish Belly dance Costume
Click picture to enlarge Commonalities among Turkish designer Belly dance costumes are harder to nail down because the nature of designing is the individual creativity of a designer. But some commentary can be made.

    Beaded fringe remains in vogue, both long and short strands. Trends lean toward a fuller fringe on the belt with minimal, accenting fringe on the bra. Attaching fringe along the base of the belt is favored. If a skirt with no separate hip belt, ample fringe is attached (unlike its Egyptian counterpart).

    Picture of a Designer Turkish Belly dance Costume
Click picture to enlarge Designer sets tend to use large and small glass stones heavily in combination with fabric, sequins, and seed beads to cover and decorate the surface of the bra, belt, and accent the accessories. Alternatively, the surfaces may be intricately stitched in dainty glass beads of contrasting colors. There is the tendency in both instances to decorate in flowing abstract patterns. Skirt and accessories are often heavily decorated, mimicking the work on the bra and belt.

    Picture of a Designer Turkish Belly dance Costume
Click picture to enlarge Bra shapes vary from the classic bra to adjoining half vest, asymmetrical half top/half bra, large diamond shapes on the bottom of bra... Belt shapes are also varied though the V shape is trademark (designer sets tend to be daintier than mass produced counterparts).

    Full designer costumes include decorative headband and necklace, some type of arm adornment as described in the foreword, a veil, bra, belt, and skirt. Fabrics used are velvet, crushed velvet, stretch velvet, chiffons and some lycra - mostly matte.


    Picture of a Turkish Belly dance Skirt
Click picture to enlargeOther distinctive elements of Turkish belly dance costuming are (often risque) cut outs on the skirt and or belt Picture of a Turkish Belly dance Skirt
Click picture to enlargeAnd skirts that are arranged or styled to show both legs up to the hip.

    Click picture to enlarge Many American dancers have an image of this nature come to mind at the mention of Turkish Belly dance costumes. Lets explore how this stripperesque association developed. Few Americans traveled to Turkey to research Oriental dance in the 1960's and 70's. Those that did report Turkish Roman Oriental dance as a "gutsy", "primal", "raw", "unrestrained", "passionate" dance and Turkish Oriental dance (different from the Roman version) as "joyful", "energetic", "lively", and "bright".

    However, in the 1980's the dance became, largely, debased. It was used to cater to the soft core market and often to 'advertise the goods' at low class venues. The pictures and video produced in Turkey at that time were, primarily, targeting the sex industry. This is the type of material that became accessible to American dancers. The majority had no other frame of reference and the ill represented Turkish Oriental dance was taken at face value. Which was "exceedingly underdressed, blueplate special raunch" to quote Morocco. That is (more or less) a bygone era. Turkey sustains trained, quality artists who are well costumed and respectably showcased. It has become a popular destination for dance tourists.

    Pictures of Turkish Belly dance Costumes (1960's to Present)


    Picture of a Turkish Belly dancer
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    Belly dancer Sabine Sevan

    Picture of a Turkish Belly dancer
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    Belly dancer Princess Banu

    Picture of a Turkish Belly dancer
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    Belly dancer Ozel Turkbas

    Picture of a Turkish Belly dancer
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    Belly dancer Nesrin Topkapi

    Picture of a Turkish Belly dancer
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    Belly dancer Sema Yildiz


    Picture of a Turkish Belly dancer
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    Belly dancer Burcin Orhon

    Picture of a Turkish Belly dancer
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    Unknown Belly dancer

    Picture of a Turkish Belly dancer
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    Unknown Belly dancer

    Picture of a Turkish Belly dancer
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    Unknown Belly dancer

    Picture of a Turkish Belly dancer
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    Unknown Belly dancer


    Haute Couture to Novice Turkish Belly dance Costumes


    Bella and Sim Moda Evi are the unrivaled Haute Couture of Turkey. Full costumes from these fashion houses start at 650 dollars and go upwards from there. Bauchladen and Dahlal International carry high end Turkish designs that start at 800 dollars. Topkapi Designs produce middle of the road costumes starting at 400 dollars, and some high end costumes starting at 700 dollars. Istar Costumes and the Turkish Emporium sell novice sets starting at 150 dollars.

    Egypt, A Foreword


    The typical Egyptian Belly dance costume is a gown or a bra and skirt with hip accentuations built directly onto it. Accessories can include a headband, arm cuffs or form fitting (unattached) sleeves, and a veil. In Egypt Oriental dancers are prohibited from exposing bare midriff. A body stocking, made from mesh with a loose or tight weave (colored or nude) is worn with two piece sets in obedience to this law. Shoes are a possibility.

    Mass Produced Egyptian Belly dance Costumes


    Picture of a Mass Produced Egyptian Belly dance Costume
Click picture to enlarge Lower end mass produced Egyptian Belly dance costumes are easy to spot. The fringe is 6 to 12 inches long with each strand ending in a plastic bead or palette. Fringe on the bra is attached in two places: across the base and in a large V starting at the outside of the cups and coming to a point where the cups adjoin. Though, a bra may come with only one arrangement of fringe. The fringe on the belt attaches at the base, often with an accenting piece attached to the center (front and back) of the belt.

    The surface of the belt and bra is stitched in one solid color of sequins and host to no other decoration.

    There is nothing notable about the shape of the current bra used in Egyptian Belly dance costumes. But the styling of the belt (low or high end) is distinct. The front part of the belt is rectangular in shape while the back is in a half circle, covering and slightly cupping the buttocks. The belt is often in one piece (unlike most Turkish belts that come in two parts) and the edges are clean and straight.

    To interject opinion, these mass produced belts fit most women horribly! They are not darted to hug a womans curving figure so the bottom fits snugly while the top gaps unattractively.

    Picture of a Mass Produced Egyptian Belly dance Skirt
Click picture to enlargeA full costume includes bra, belt, skirt and matching rectangular or half circle veil. Fabrics tend to be a polyester/chiffon blend edged in seed beads and palettes. The skirt is either; a two or three paneled circle skirt decorated in sequined flowers. Or a pleated circle skirt with vertical rows of sequins.

    Designer Egyptian Belly dance Costumes


    Picture of a Designer Egyptian Belly dance Costume
Click picture to enlarge I am lumping middle/high end AND haute couture Egyptian belly dance costumes together because similar commentary applys. These costumes do not share similar characteristics with lower end sets. Soft flowing looks, long, ample fringe and bra/belt/skirt sets are in the minority.

    Gowns and bra with sleek skirt is where it's at. If there is fringe on the costume; chunky beads are used, often grouping several strands together and placing them sparingly on the pelvic area. Gowns and bra/skirts are made of like fabric (variants of lycra rule). Gowns often have mesh covered cut outs on the mid-section.

    Picture of a Designer Egyptian Belly dance Costume
Click picture to enlarge The bra cups, pelvic area and length of the skirt are embroidered in recognizable designs, such as flowers or flowing abstracts. Materials used are sequins and a variety of beads. Stones, large stones especially, are uncommon. Though there is a predilection for emphasizing the nipple area with a large stone. Decoration can be sparse or incredibly opulent! Because of the polyurethane fabrics the fit is snug and sleek. This goes for the accessaries too. A full costume is gown plus head band, sleeves and veil or bra/skirt, headband, sleeves, and veil.

    Belly dance stars in Egypt often wear unique and avant guard costumes. Standard shows are an hour with 3 or more costume changes. Cutting edge costuming is an important part of the spectacle. Egyptian style Belly dancers in America however favor two piece sets and gowns and leave the camouflage, spandex mini-dresses and such to Dina.

    Pictures of Egyptian Belly dance Costumes (1950's to Present)


    Picture of an Egyptian Belly dancer
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    Belly dancer Tahia Carioca

    Picture of an Egyptian Belly dancer
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    Belly dancer Samia Gamal

    Picture of an Egyptian Belly dancer
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    Belly dancer Mona Said

    Picture of an Egyptian Belly dancer
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    Belly dancer Soheir Zaki


    Picture of an Egyptian Belly dancer
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    Belly dancer Soheir Zaki

    Picture of an Egyptian Belly dancer
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    Belly dancer Lucy

    Picture of an Egyptian Belly dancer
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    Belly dancer Lucy

    Picture of an Egyptian Belly dancer
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    Belly dancer Dina


    Haute Couture to Novice Egyptian Belly dance Costumes


    Madame Abla and Pharonics are the leading Haute Couture of Egypt. Neither fashion house has a website but Dahlal international carries both labels and Audrena carries Pharonics exclusively. Elite designers have elite prices, expect costumes to start around 800 dollars. (Prices have come down considerably in the last ten years!) For high end costumes, designer Eman Zaki, is worth a look and the BellyDanceStore has a respectable collection (request price lists) . Lost Treasures carries affordable middle of the road costumes and Pyramid Imports carries (overpriced) novice costumes.

    America, A Foreword


    Americans following authentic ethnic styles (Turkish, Lebanese and Egyptian) patronize costuming traditional to the region they present. What will be carved out of the American belly dance scene is the classic American Belly dance costume. While it's not discussed at length here, please note that practitioners of American Belly dance also draw on Turkish and Egyptian costuming.

    A Note on Tribal Style Costuming

    Tribal style costuming often leaves the uneducated viewer with the impression that it is authentic Middle Eastern folk wear. Probably due to the predisposition for a more covered look, and the use of natural fiber materials often in earthy tones.

    The truth is that Tribal style roots go back to 1968, California. The predecessor was a dance troupe, "Bal Anot", created by American dancer Jamila Salimpour. The costuming, diverse elements drawn into one distinct look, was also the work of Jamila. She created characters that had an "old style from the Middle East" feeling.

    Over 30 odd years the dance and costuming have morphed, and inspired spin-off styles. The basic components today are turban, choli top, coined bra, tassel belt, multi-tiered skirt, pantaloons, scarves, mazouna ropes, shisa mirrors and Kuchi jewelry. Overall, Afghani, Pakistani and Indian flavors seem to dominate (countries not connected to Belly dance).

    To compare and contrast. The Tribal style dancer will often wear a turban. In the east turbans are a garment worn by men. Woman cover their hair with a hijab, a simple piece of fabric arranged to lay over the scalp and length of the hair. A Tribal style dancer will often choose a choli top, alone or in addition to a bra. A choli is a form fitting top that comes under the bust line. It is a garment worn by Indian women under the sari. The Tribal dancer will often decorate her belt with yarn tassels. In North Africa tassels are used for decorating camel and donkey halters and saddle blankets on special occasions.

    Most Americans live apart from a Near, Middle or Far Eastern cultural frame work and because of that feel free to bring all of these bits together into a theatrical costume. I don't have any beef about that. My only agenda here is to identify Tribal style costuming for what it is and what it is not .

    The Classic American Belly dance Costume


    Many additions or subtractions can take place in an American Belly dance costume while remaining true to the genre. They are individually made ensembles so personal taste is hugely influential. The basic components are head ornamentation, bra, vest, belt, skirt, pants, scarves and veil.

    Picture of a Belly dance Headband
Click picture to enlargeA headband with fringe (beads or coins or both) graces the head. The fringe dangles in front of the forehead and along the sides of the face. Also/or a scarf (or many) is worn at the hairline. Hair is loose and exposed (long hair is favored). Earrings and necklace are a must.

    Picture of a Belly dance coin bra and belt
Click picture to enlarge The bra and belt are covered with fabric. Material type and appearance are diverse but two commonalities are opaque and fancy, no gunnysack or calico. Metal adornments are sewn onto the fabric clad set. These adornments can be coins, bells, chain, large disks and sometimes small mirrors. One item may be used by itself or a combination of some or all. Metal colors can be brass, variants of nickel, gold and silver, either antiqued or polished. A belly drape of the same material is commonly included. A large center piece sits over the diaphragm with filigree draping over the belly and ribs.

    In lieu of metal adornment a fabric clad set may be decorated with nylon fringe or some swags of beads and a speckling of stones or sequins. This can be lovelier than it sounds. Lightly decorated sets often use intense fabrics so there is no need to fill space.

    Picture of a Belly dance vest
Click picture to enlarge A form fitting, sleeveless, keyhole vest can be worn with the bra. The front of the vest is cut in such a way as to allow the bra cups to be visible. The vest coordinates with skirt and pant fabrics.

    Nothing notable about the shape of the bra. Belt bases are hand made and shaped to individual preference.

    Picture of a Belly dance panel skirt
Click picture to enlarge Several layers of skirts in chiffon are favored. Panel skirts are the classic choice though circle and other skirt patterns are used. Pantaloons (aka Harem Pants) are oft included and made from chiffons, satins, strains of silk... Skirt and pants lack detail work. Scarves may be worn under the belt or tucked into the belt.

    Picture of Belly dance bracelets
Click picture to enlarge Rings, arm bands, arm and ankle bracelets are popular, shoes are not.

    Rudimentarily the ensemble isn't far off the mark from Belly dance costuming in the east but it is inherently American. The use of coins, and other metal work as decoration in belly dance costuming is an American method. Along with keyhole vests, the way scarves are often used, ankle bracelets and Indian fabrics...

    Pictures of American Belly dance Costumes


    To check out retro costumes I encourage you to take a look through the North Beach article series. A fabulous journey through American Belly dance with some wonderful pictures from the 1950's, 60's and 70's.

    Here are a few photo's of me as an adolescent. The white and gold set was fashioned after the classic American belly dance costume. The pink and silver IS a classic. It belonged to my mother (also a belly dancer), who performed in that costume in the 1970's.
    Picture of an American Belly dance costume
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    Belly dancer Salome

    Picture of an American Belly dance costume
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    Belly dancer Salome

    Picture of an American Belly dance costume
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    Belly dancer Salome

    Picture of an American Belly dance costume
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    Belly dancer Beyata


    Haute Couture to Novice American Belly dance Costumes


    There is no haute couture of American belly dance costumes in the same sense as Turkey and Egypt. The classic American Belly dance costume has traditionally been a personally crafted ensemble or assembly of various pre-made items.

    But pre-made metal sets are available from Cost Less costumes. They make high end coin, mirror, foil and crystal sets ranging from 500 to over 1,000 dollars. Sara Skinner sells attractive middle of the road coin and mirror sets for around 300 dollars. India manufactures metal belts, necklaces, and anklets. Importers often promote it as Belly dance wear. It isn't belly dance wear. India has nothing to do with belly dance and they do not produce belly dance costuming. However, it's dirt cheap and a lot of folks feel it, and other Indian products, carry over well. For pre-made bra and belt forms Sugar Petals gets the most action. L Rose Designs and Glitzy Gypsy custom make lovely American Belly dance Costumes.

    Happy shopping!